Wine Regions, Part 2: Vouvray of Loire Valley
In partnership with Vouvray AOC
Domaine de la Racauderie – Vouvray Moelleux paired with British cheeses
Wines in this unique area were produced from the ancient times, but it wasn’t until 1936 when Vouvray was recognised as a Protected Designation of Origin. The concept of terroir has set the foundations for the appellations d’origine contrôlées. It is thanks to the terroir, this unique combination of natural factors and human know-how that gives the wine its individuality. With the Pineau de la Loire (or Chenin Blanc) grape variety, Vouvray wine growers skills are expressed through their wines. In this historical wine region, this unique and original grape variety has found ideal conditions to produce excellence.
Jean-Claude et Didier Aubert Vouvray Sec
Vouvray soil
The soil composition is of course the main factor influencing the notion of terroir. In French, the two words “terre” (soil) and “terroir” are almost synonymous and therefore often confused. Soil plays an important part in wine growing. The Vouvray appellation district has clearly defined boundaries. It stretches out over twenty kilometres, upstream from Tours, on the right bank of the Loire River. These 3000 hectares of hillsides overlook the majestic Loire River and adjacent valleys and enjoy a particularly favourable microclimate. Many geological accidents have shaped the 90 million year old Turonian limestone and have given the Vouvray terroir its unique character. Indeed the variety of conditions that can be found here is often qualified as ‘micro-terroirs’ according to the nature of the soil that covers the Turonian limestone.
Unique climate
The vineyards lay between the oceanic and the continental climates. This is where sea breezes and land breezes meet. The Loire River is a natural temperature regulator. Its effects can be felt in the vineyards thanks to the many valleys that shape the hillsides.These particular climatic conditions have a strong impact on the vintage. This determines the level of ripeness and sugar content in the fruit, giving the grower the choice of making sparkling, still dry or medium-dry wines. When Indian summer conditions coincide with the harvest time, development of ‘noble rot’ can be observed, allowing for the production of sweet wines.
Silex Vouvray Dry Vigneau Chevreau 2019
Troglodytic cellars and clos, two original peculiarities of Vouvray
In Vouvray, there are a few distinctive characteristics that are not found anywhere else, except perhaps a little more to the west and still along the banks of the Loire River in a few plots of land near Angers. The first of Vouvray’s particularities is the "clos". This designates a cadastral entity, of which there are many examples in the Vouvray district. This is a special place because it reflects the unique nature of the geology. Not all the lieux dits are “clos”, but all of the “clos” in Vouvray are lieux dits. They are single vineyards plots, surrounded by stonewall where the fiery nature of flint mixes with the tender nature of limestone. By capturing the sun’s heat they reinforce the supremacy of the place and the wines produced. The most prestigious Vouvray “clos” have enjoyed a longstanding international reputation. They are the Clos Naudin, the Clos du Bourg, the Clos Baudouin, the Clos du Petit Mont, the Clos de Nouys, the Clos de l’Epinay, the Clos des Aumônes. These “clos” are mainly found in premium locations like the first hills overlooking the different valleys of the district. As such, they are situated directly above the troglodytic cellars. These cellars (which are sometimes houses) make up the second peculiarity of the Vouvray district. They are old quarries, dug into the limestone hillside, where stone was extracted for the construction of houses, churches, and “clos” walls. They naturally provide ideal temperature and humidity conditions for maturing and ageing wines made from the surrounding vineyards. This is a miraculous balance and a perfectly self-sufficient system.
The Chenin: the Vouvray grape
Understanding Vouvray wines is, first of all, looking at the Chenin grape. All the wines from this appellation, without exception, are the result of this unusual grape variety. Chenin can be found in a few regions around the world but it only gives its finest expression in the middle Loire area where the growers have managed to tame it. It is in Vouvray that it offers its widest range of styles, from dry mineral to dense sweet wines and from still to sparkling wines.
Silex Vouvray Dry Vigneau Chevreau
Noble Rot
In many cases the Vouvray pickers will defy the approaching winter in the hope that their precious grapes will succumb to ‘noble rot’. A microscopic mushroom, the botrytis cinerea, dehydrates the berry, thus concentrating the sugars. A meticulous job then takes place all over the Vouvray district, from Rochecorbon to Vernou-sur-Brenne, from Sainte-Radegonde to Reugny passing through Parçay Meslay and from Chançay to Noizay. Endless successive grape sorting are taking place in the coldest winter conditions, producing extremely low yields and the promise of heightened majestic flavours and aromas.
One terroir, one grape, 4 wines
The particular climate of the Vouvray region has a strong effect on the style of wines produced. Depending on the sugar content of the harvest, the grower has the choice of developing sparkling, still dry or still medium-dry wines. When an Indian summer coincides with the harvest time, we can observe the development of noble rot which then allows for the production of sweet wines.
Sparkling Vouvray
Champalou – Brut
The harvest for this wine takes place in the early hours of the morning to take advantage of the cool temperature helping to protect the delicate flavour of the Chenin. The grapes are pressed delicately with the press and the selected juice is fermentated at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks. The wine will then age on its fine lies for a few months before the various vintages are blended for bottling. The second fermentation occurs in bottle with the aid of the natural residual sugar content. The bottles stay for at least 2 years on the “latte” before the final phase.
Champalou Brut is enjoyable at every festive moment. Ideal as an aperitif, it can also be served during an elegant diner.
Order from Eton Vintners
Vouvray Troglodyte – Alain Robert
This sparkling 100% Chenin Blanc is from 15 to 20-year-old vines. Aged for 6 months in stainless steel tanks, then left for the second fermentation for at least 16-24 months. Notes of white fruits, acacia flowers, apple, pear and toasted pistachio on the palate. Fresh and elegant finish perfect as a pre-dinner drink to with light seafood starters.
Order from Mumbles Fine Wines
Benoit Gautier – Domaine de la Chataigneraie
This amazing sparkling wine and its fine bubbles pair perfectly with salty and sugary classy appetizers such as individual trifles or tumblers. Some delicate scents of fruits and flowers will seduce your nose. You will also be surprised by how the fineness of these bubbles and the powerfulness of the wine combine in a glass.
Each year only 4 000 to 10 000 bottles are produced. Bottles are stored in 2km long cellar in order to maturate on the lees. This wine can be stored for aging up to 12 years.
Order from Champagnes and Chateaux
Sylvain Gaudron – Vouvray Brut
Since 1890, four generations of the Gaudron family have lived in Vernou, producing Vouvray wines. The Gaudron family vineyard covers 27 hectares. About two-thirds of the vines are at least thirty years old on average. All the vines of the Domaine are planted on a limestone-clay soil which rests on a sub-layer of tuffeau, the elegant stone used to build the Châteaux for which the region is so renowned. While Gilles Gaudron values the traditional methods of wine making, he still strives to improve the quality of his products.
Order from The Fine Wine Company
Dry Vouvray
Renaissance Sebastien Brunet
From 45 year-old vines grown in 2.5 hectares of clay and limestone soils, the grapes are hand-harvested from mid-September to mid-October. Spontaneous fermentation lasts between 1-3 months in barrel and stainless steel with no temperature control. The wine then allowed to age in barrel for 8 months.
An excellent expression of Chenin with more bottle age, riper fruits, creamy texture and driving acidity.
Order from Lay & Wheeler
Silex Vouvray Dry Vigneau Chevreau
This wonderful domaine, growing exclusively Chenin Blanc on its 30 hectares and with cave-like cellars built deep into the hillside, has been producing wine since 1875. The current and fifth generation are brothers Christophe and Stephane Vigneau who have been responsible for making the estate, already certified organic, only the second in Vouvray to become biodynamic (the other being Domaine Huet). Grapes are harvested entirely by hand and the vineyards worked by horse.
The Cuvee Silex is floral and expressive, with notes of baked apple, orange and honey, distinctly dry but with great depth and purity.
Order from DBM Wines
Denis Meunier Expression de Silex
Although Denis Meunier is only 26, his small domaine is one of the most old-school you are likely to find in Vouvray. Denis took over 13 hectares of old 65 years old vine from his father and uncle in 2012. Even after a string of heartbreaking vintages early in his tenure, his vision and dedication are unwavering. He is moving the domaine toward organic farming.
This wine is sourced from vines with an average age of 30 years. It is pressed slowly, at a low pressure, is cold stabilized, and undergoes a long, cool alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel. Once the fermentation is over, the wine is racked and aged on the fine lees, receiving battonage when necessary. This Chenin is perfect with seafood, fish, shellfish.
Order from Majestic Wines
Champalou - Sec
The vineyard is maintained following sustainable farming culture (the method most respectful to the microbiological life of the ground and water). The vine and wine production are certified Terra Vitis, respecting the environment but also the employees. The manual and mechanical labour are favoured as is the use of natural products.
Same as for sparkling Champalou the harvest takes place in the early hours of the morning to take advantage of the cool temperature, helping protect the delicate flavours of the Chenin. It is after this important stage that the grapes are respectfully pressed with a pneumatic press with the aim is to protect the minerality and the fruit of the wine.
Order from Eton Vintners
Jean-Claude et Didier Aubert Vouvray Sec
This wine will go well with fish, shellfish, crustaceans, but also hors d'oeuvres, raw vegetables, white meats. It will also be appreciated as an aperitif or with cheeses of character and spicy dishes. Complex and deep, this dry Vouvray 2018 has dried berry fragrances and a vanilla touch.
Order from Yapp Brothers
Vouvray Sec Empreinte – Alain Robert
This mineral & citrusy dry wine is made from 30-50 years old grapes grown on a clay & limestone soil. The weather of the year clearly impacts the taste of the final wine but the winemaker’s goal is to reveal the elegance of a dry Chenin Blanc wine from the terroir of Vouvray.
The winemaker suggests to pair this dry Vouvray with beautiful but simply cooked products such as clams, a carpaccio of scallops & lime juice, prawns, langoustines or a grilled turbot.
Order from Mumbles Fine Wines
Les Tuffes – Maison Darragon
The maker of this wine allows natural grass between the rows of grapes to promote micro- organisms and limiting yields for greater maturity and quality of the grapes.
You’ll find white fruit, green apple and citrus notes in the bottle of this wine. In perfect harmony during your aperitifs, it will also accord with the delicacies of the sea, dishes and cold entries to long cooking as the Blanquette de veau.
Order from Gerard Seel Wines
Medium-Dry Vouvray
Domaine Huet – Le Haut Lieu Demi Sec
Domaine Huet – Le Haut Lieu Demi Sec
Since its founding in 1928, Vouvray’s Domaine Huet has been the standard-bearer for great, age-worthy Chenin Blanc. And to this day, year after year, the estate produces some of the world’s most compelling white wines - sparkling, dry, semi-dry, and breathtaking dessert styles.
Today, Domaine Huet may be making its most consistently great wines. As was one of the earliest adopters of biodynamic practices, and with years of experience working with the appellation’s greatest terroirs, Domaine Huet’s winemakers are achieving a fascinating level of transparency, purity, and knife-edged balance in the wines.
Pretty, elegant and juicy. Lemon sherbet, vibrant and really tasty. You’ll find mouth-watering hints of elderflower and savoury traces of sage for balance.
Order from Lay & Wheeler
Sweet Vouvray
Domaine de la Racauderie – Vouvray Moelleux
The Chenin grape is probably the most versatile in the world. It makes wonderfully light dry wines, astounding medium-dry wines, and the most sumptuous, sweet pudding wines!
This Vouvray sweet is very sweet although not in the least “tacky". It leaves your mouth feeling like having just one more sip. Open this wine at least a few minutes in advance so that the wine can breathe well. Fill your mouth with the subtle flavours of honey, pollen, apricots & cream. Feel how the wine launches forth to match the desserts you have made for it. Marvellous with trifle, strawberry mousse, custard creams, Christmas pudding and of course cheeses.
You can also drink it as a cocktail for a change.
Half used bottles will keep well in the door of the fridge. Just put the stopper back in.
Order from Amanda’s Wine
Bernard Fouquet ‘Le Plan de Jean’– Domaine des Aubuisieres
This cuvée is only produced in vintages that allow an optimal maturity and can age 15 years. Try as an Aperitif or with foie gras, cheeses, fresh fruit desserts, acidulous fruit tarts.
Order from Vinatis
